A France-shaped cheese in Lyon

Can’t beat a descriptive title.

I was in Lyon last weekend with my friend Anne. She knows that I’m really into my food, and that it was the first time I’d visited the city (in 16 years of living in France, shame on me). So she took me to Les Halles, the city’s indoor market, filled with 48 different food stalls, many selling regional produce, including a France-shaped goats cheese.

This particular Halles (the name given to covered food markets in France) is associated with Paul Bocuse, a multi-Michelin starred chef from the region. I’m not sure why to be honest, whether he financed the total refurb 2 years ago, or if it’s just an advertising deal. In any case, it gives quite a high-level feel to the market’s image, confirmed by the quality of the produce.

We bought a Saucisson brioché for lunch. As the name suggests, this is a cooked sausage in a brioche casing. Sounds bizarre but is delicious. I was unable to resist the quenelles, so I bought 2 types, plain and with morel mushrooms.

Quenelles are a traditional dish from Lyon, kind of like elegant dumplings made from a flour or semolina mixture and often some kind of fish (the traditional recipe uses pike). I had them for tea this week, heated in the oven with a drizzle of olive oil and served with some green beans. They came out of the oven very light and fluffy and had lots of flavour.

Next stop was the bakery stall to buy a tarte à la praline. This is also regional speciality, basically a short crust pastry with cream and pralines. The one we bought was much thinner than usual (see picture) with a very fine, nutty base containing brown sugar.

It was one of those markets I love, which attracts groups of families and friends to the bars and oyster stalls for a lunchtime glass of wine. There was a huge amount of atmosphere, and that inimitable French mix of adults chatting and laughing amongst themselves while their children occupied themselves nearby.

I don’t think many French people realise it, because it’s so ingrained in their culture, but this Sunday-morning experience is what makes France such a great place: a glass of wine or two and a plate of oysters, shared with friends and family, over a random discussion about the day’s news. That’s what living is about.

Marché Saint Martin, a cool find

I just made a really cool find about 15 minutes walk from my place.

I think I’d vaguely heard of the Saint Martin market before but never bothered to find out where it actually is or if it’s any good. I randomly walked past the very discreet entrance this morning on the way to somewhere else and decided to check it out.I only had a couple of minutes but managed to get a good feel of the place and enough to definitely decide to go back there soon.

It reminds me a lot of the indoor markets that I’ve been to outside Paris, notably Dijon and Arcachon, which have a combination of pristine stalls filled with lots of interesting meat, veg, cheese and fish, as well as a bar so you can have a coffee or a glass of wine once you’ve done your shopping. Love that!

It was early and the place was just opening so it seemed very calm, I’m sure it will be less so on a Saturday afternoon, but despite that it still seems like the kind of place that would never get too crowded (which in my book is definitely a good thing). This place is similar in a way to the Marché des Enfants Rouges in the 3rd district, except that in the latter there’s a lot less space between the stalls, it’s usually rammed, and because it’s pretty central and well known the prices are considerably higher than traditional markets (although the chicken pastilla at the Maroccan stall are AMAZING).

Anyway, I shall be going back to the Marché Saint Martin sometime soon. Likely on a Saturday morning to do the weekend’s shop and then have a cheeky glass of wine afterwards.



Where you can have a glass of wine once you’ve done your shopping


The discreet entrance (apart from the flag). In my defence it’s next to a really nice florists so I’m usually too busy looking at the flowers as I walk past to notice anything else.